Table of Contents: Fragrant Signatures

About This Manual

Introduction

1. Short History of Using Natural Fragrant Materials

2.The Smell Experience
    2.1. Body Odour and Perfume Choice

3.What is Natural Perfume and Why One Should Learn How to Create It?
    3.1. Comparison of Natural and Synthetic Perfumes

4.Materials Used in Natural Perfumery
   4.1. Fragrant Materials of Plant Origin
   4.2. Fragrant Materials of Animal Origin
   4.3. Bases
   4.4. Perfumer’s Palette
           4.4.1. Materials for the Starting Palette
   4.5. Procuring Fragrant Materials
          4.5.1. Adding Tinctures to Your Palette
                     4.5.1.1. Few Useful Tinctures
   4.6. Quality Assessment
   4.7. Storing Natural Fragrant Materials

5.Studying Fragrant Materials
   5.1. Space and Accessories
           5.1.1. Inventory of Fragrant Materials
   5.2. How to Organize Work
   5.3. Preparing Fragrant Materials
   5.4. Describing Scents
   5.5. Evaluating Materials in the Palette
           5.5.1. Scent Evaluation Forms
   5.6. Summing up the Knowledge about Materials in the Palette
           5.6.1. Palette Materials Sorted by Notes, Scent Groups and Scent Intensity
   5.7. Learning by the Jean Carles Method

6.Classification of Fragrant Materials
   6.1. Classification by Notes
           6.1.1. Bridge Notes
           6.1.2. Expanding Notes
           6.1.3. Accessory Notes
   6.2. Classification by Scent Groups
           6.2.1. Classification by Scent Groups by Jean Carles Method
           6.2.2. Scent Groups
                      6.2.2.1.  Agrestic Group
                      6.2.2.2.  Animalic Group
                      6.2.2.3.  Balsamic Group
                      6.2.2.4.  Citrus Group
                      6.2.2.5.  Coniferous Group
                      6.2.2.6.  Earthy Group
                      6.2.2.7.  Floral Group
                      6.2.2.8.  Fruity Group
                      6.2.2.9.  Gourmand Group
                      6.2.2.10. Green Group
                      6.2.2.11. Herbal Group
                      6.2.2.12. Marine Group
                      6.2.2.13. Powdery Group
                      6.2.2.14. Spicy Group
                      6.2.2.15. Woody Group
                      6.2.2.16. Other

7.Composing Accords
    7.1. Accords
            7.1.1. Horizontal Accord
            7.1.2. Vertical Accord
            7.1.3. Collection of Successful Accords

8.The Process of Creating Alcohol-based Perfume
    8.1. Perfume Plan
    8.2. Perfume Creating
            8.2.1. Solid Structure Method
                       8.2.1.1. Base Accord
                       8.2.1.2. Middle Accord
                       8.2.1.3. Top Accord
                       8.2.1.4. Balancing Accords
                       8.2.1.5. Perfume Formula
                       8.2.1.6. Addressing Potential Problems
                       8.2.1.7. Perfume Evaluation Form
                       8.2.1.8. Post Festum Interventions
                       8.2.1.9. Increasing Amounts
           8.2.2. More Flexible Creation Methods
                      8.2.2.1. Composing From an Accord
                      8.2.2.2. Leading Theme
                      8.2.2.3. As Imagination Wishes
   8.3. Different Perfume Components: Bases
           8.3.1. Building a Base
                      8.3.1.1. Collection of Bases
   8.4. Perfumes Classified by Concentration
   8.5. Perfume Families
           8.5.1. Floral Family
           8.5.2. Amber Family
           8.5.3. Chypre Family
           8.5.4. Fougere Family
           8.5.5. Citrus Family
   8.6. Taking Care of Your Natural Perfumes

9.Other Forms of Perfumes
   9.1. Oil-based Perfumes
           9.1.1. Making an Infused Oils
   9.2. Solid Perfumes
           9.2.1. Making an Enfleurage Pomade

10.Safety
      10.1. Restrictions: IFRA Directives

11.Ecology and Sustainability
      11.1. Threatened Species

12.Everyday Life of Natural Perfume Creator

13.Glossary

14.Literature
     14.1. Books
     14.2. Articles, Online Resources and Personal Communication

15.Appendices
     15.1. English-Latin List of Mentioned Materials
     15.2. Suppliers
     15.3. Spare Forms

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